Backtrack Part I: Eastern Europe

After my bags were adequately stored, I spent the night saying goodbye to people who I would not see for a while, then at 1:00am I boarded a bus to Ben Gurion Airport. 

Exhausted, I remember sitting down in my chair on the airplane, and waking up many hours later in Prague. From Prague we took a puddle-jumper to Krakow, where we began our journey.

Despite the gloom and grayness of Schindler's list, I found Poland to be remarkably beautiful. I found it hard to believe that such a short time ago this place was the sight of immense horror. On our first day of the trip we toured around the Jewish quarter of Krakow, visiting synagogues and other cultural centers while learning about the strength of the Polish Jewish community. Many of the shops and restaurants have a Jewish theme or seem to be directed to a Jewish clientele, but we were informed that the Jewish community in Krakow is very small today and these shops are operated solely for Jewish tourists such as ourselves. 

The next day we woke up very early and embarked for Auschwitz-Birkenau. I had heard a lot about seeing this place from a tourist's perspective, so I purposely dimmed my expectations of the day. Many come to Auschwitz-Birkenau expecting to see the holocaust, instead what you see is a nicely put together museum. I had chills through most of the tour, brought on by more than the frigid weather. We read passages from first-hand accounts of life at Birkenau and we saw pictures of the horrific affair and tried to connect to the unimaginable trauma of life in this place during World War II. Being able to sing the Israeli National Anthem - Hatikva (the Hope) in this ghastly place, and know that I would be going home to Israel in just a few short days was a truly unbelievable feeling. I know that my day in Auschwitz-Birkenau impacted me in a way that I cannot even describe, but I strongly recommend that you take some time in your life to visit this infamous place.

We spent that evening in the central square of Krakow, which was absolutely beautiful, and then we boarded a night train to Bratislava. 

Having known almost nothing about the city of Bratislava, let alone the country of Slovakia, before I was informed that I would be going there, I was greatly surprised by how magnificent this city was. On Thursday we toured the old city of Bratislava and wandered the streets looking at the beautiful buildings and breathtaking views. That night we went to the Jewish Community Center where we met with Jewish students who were born in Bratislava and are currently studying there. We learned a lot about the sad state of the Slovakian Jewish community, and the trouble of growing up Jewish in Bratislava. That night we were treated to a boat tour of the city down the Danube river. 

The next day we visited the grave of the Chasam Sofer who was a Slovakian Rabbi in the late 17 and early 1800s. He was a teacher to thousands and a strong opponent to Reform Judaism which was starting to grow at this time. Interestingly, he also held the belief that a modern Jewish state was not a good idea. We also visited the town of Dunajska Streda where we saw a Synagogue that is barely in use today, and we learned about the small Jewish community in this place. My Israeli trip leader also took us to the grave of the grandmother of his grandmother. The depth of Jewish tradition in these small European towns was immense, and it is incredible how little exists today as a result of the holocaust. 

We spent Friday night with the tiny Jewish community, and we had a relaxing Saturday which included a walk through the city. We went out on Saturday night in Bratislava as a final goodbye to this place in which we had never dreamt that we would ever have had such a meaningful experience. 

Sunday morning we woke up early and boarded a bus to Prague. On the way we stopped at a cave tour which concluded with a boat passage through the depths of the earth. It was a beautiful snowy day (which, coming from Israel, is actually a big deal) and regrettably my camera with all my photos from the trip, was lost forever (no worries, the internet is a wonderful tool). 

When we arrived in Prague we went on a tour of the old city. I can say without a doubt that Prague was the most beautiful city that I have ever been in. You look in one direction and think it's a beautiful, and then you turn 180º and the view is just as beautiful. The castles, bridges, cathedrals, and statues are just breathtaking. The next day we saw the Jewish quarter, with several of the most amazing synagogues I have ever been in, and a Jewish cemetery with graves from the 1600s. We learned a lot about the Jewish community of Prague, and the lingering anti-Semitism which exists today. 

From there we boarded a plane, and headed straight back to Eretz Yisrael (the Land of Israel). The trip was truly unforgettable, and really helped me understand better the sometimes wonderful, sometimes horrible, historical context of European Jews and their relation to the modern state of Israel. 

I hope this retroactive update was sufficient, I'll continue this series until I'm caught up, but that might not occur until after the winter break which concludes at the beginning of January. 

Happy Channukah!

Love,

Zach

So Little So Late

I'm terribly sorry that this isn't the update you've been expecting. I can tell you in short that Eastern Europe was amazing, the move-in to Haifa and my first several days were wonderful, and my ambulance training course was sensational. 

All three of those stories and more are forthcoming once I find the time to adequately process the experiences I've had.

Tomorrow I head to Kibbutz Deganya (the first kibbutz in Israel), for a Shabbat with all the people from my group. I expect to update you about that upon my arrival home to Haifa in 2 days time. 

Apologetically,

Zach

Going, going, gone!

Hello!

This past Tuesday I took the day off from classes to meet my mother in Tel Aviv. We spent a wonderful sunny day walking the beach, visiting a relative (discovering new relatives!), and catching up on the past three months. It was great to see her, and I'm excited to see her again when my entire family comes to visit in December. 

The following day I attended classes in the morning, and then headed out to a special field trip. I was selected by my program to represent Young Judaea at the World Zionist Congress. This meeting of hundreds of people from across the world was a phenomenal experience. I heard speakers about the evolution of Zionism in modern times, the future of Zionism in Israel, and the importance of youth to Zionism. Because of the international nature of the conference, I had to wear a translation machine to understand what was going on. I very much enjoyed the day, and I was honored to be selected.

Thursday was relatively uneventful, except for the fact that we were told where we would be spending the next three months of our lives. I was delighted to find out that I will be living in Haifa with several friends, volunteering for the Magen David Adom (the Israeli Red Cross). I will be taking a 10 day intensive training course to learn how to save lives, and then I will be volunteering on an ambulance in the third largest city in Israel. You might recall from one of my previous posts, but Haifa a beautiful city with a lot going on, and I am very excited to be spending the next three months there.

I spent Thursday night visiting with friends who are on a different program in Israel. As always, it was nice to see them. 

On Friday I went to "Ir David" the City of David which is an archeological site in Jerusalem next to the old city. This is where King David lived 2,000 years ago, and there are all sorts of interesting tunnels and ruins to see on the guided tour. 

Friday night through Saturday was a closed Shabbat in our hostel because it was our last weekend together. We had a wonderful time relaxing at home, and there were several scheduled activities during the day. 

On Sunday a friend and I went to Har Herzl (Mount Herzl) in an attempt to visit the museum which celebrates the life of Theodor Herzl. Unfortunately, we were informed upon arrival that the museum is only open to those with reservations. Thankfully, Har Herzl (the national cemetery) is one of my favorite places in the country. We spent the morning visiting tombs of famous Israeli's from history, and preparing for my Zionism final which was the next day.

Today I took my Zionism final and wrote a final paper for another class. I then packed my bags, cleaned my room, and went out to eat with a few friends. Now I'm back at the hostel, finishing the packing process, and getting ready to leave. As soon as I post this blog, I will be shutting down my computer, packing it in my suitcase, putting my suitcase in storage, and then boarding a bus for the airport. 

I will be spending the next 7 days touring Poland, Slovakia, and the Czech Republic. I'm very excited for the trip, and I will be sure to update you on everything as soon as I return. 

It might be a while before I post again because I will not have access to the internet for a very long time. 

That's all for now!

-Zach

Winding Down and Gearing Up

Firstly, I'd like to remark on a significant element of my previous week which I neglected to mention in my last blog. We spent last monday celebrating Hadassah Day. Hadassah is a phenomenal organization which is the mother organization of Young Judaea (the movement which hosts my program). On Hadassah day we toured two of the most innovative and successful hospitals in the Middle East, Hadassah Mount Scopus, and Hadassah Ein Kerem. These phenomenal institutions have been serving both Palestinian and Israeli patients for many years and have contributed a lot to the field of medicine. It was interesting to see these beautiful buildings for a 3rd time, and learn about the impact they have had on Israel and the world. 

My orientation for the trip to Eastern Europe was a very good experience. It was great to see all my friends from France together in the same place for the first time since we left each-other at the airport. We talked about the logistics and the itinerary for the trip. We will be traveling to Poland, the Czech Republic, and Slovakia (I will post my itinerary as the trip gets closer). We also had a few programs on the Holocaust and on Eastern European jewry from before the establishment of the State of Israel. 

On Saturday night I took a bus to Tel Aviv for a rally commemorating the 13th anniversary of Yitzchak Rabin's death. Israeli Prime Minister Yitzchak Rabin was assassinated after a peace rally in 1995. It was amazing to see the tens of thousands of people once again fill the square which now bears his name, united in a call for peace in Israel. Many prominent Israeli politicians spoke, as well as family members of Rabin, and a representative of Barack Obama (Jimmy Hoffa). There were several moving musical performances, video clips of Rabin's life, and tributes symbolizing the events which occurred on the night of his death. 

Since that night I have been busy with classes, tests, and papers (yet again). This is my last week of classes and final exams and projects are sitting unpleasantly on my mind. It feels like only days ago that I first landed in Israel, and now approximately 3 months later, I am getting ready to pack my bags and head to the next component of my program.

I am very nervous to find out what I will be doing, where I will be living, and who I will be living with for the next three months. I am told that I will be informed this coming Thursday, and I will be sure to mention that on this blog once that information is imparted to me. 

Tomorrow I am headed to Tel Aviv yet again to meet my mom who is here for a while on a business trip. 

Hope all is well!

-Zach

too busy to blog

I'm very sorry that I have been failing my faithful readers. I'm going to need to start blogging on a daily basis because my weeks are so action packed that by the time I sit down to write, I've forgotten much of what I wanted to say. 

Since the holidays ended and classes resumed, I have been perpetually overwhelmed by the extraordinary amount of activities which have kept me busy. While the short list which I am about to produce might seem inadequate, I can promise that to write the unabridged version would take me longer than the amount of time I have left in this section. 

I spent a weekend in Jerusalem, walking the streets, visiting the Biblical zoo, and sleeping in a friend's apartment. I spent a weekend in Tel Aviv, experiencing the Shuk, running into the man running for Mayor, watching the sunset from Jaffa, and eating on the beach. I visited the home of a Yemenite immigrant songstress who serenaded us with her internationally acclaimed vocal prowess, then taught us about Yeminite Jewish culture. I stayed up all night to watch the Presidential election, then slept for much of the following day. I spent a day in the West Bank learning more about the settlements and the controversy surrounding land for peace. I've heard speakers on many issues ranging from the Peace Process, to the life and times of Jesus Christ. I've been bowling at an establishment which pretends to be American. I've been to the concert of an extremely popular Israeli guitarist and singer. I've visited the largest establishment for Jewish learning in the world (a yeshiva with approximately 5,000 students). I've been to the youth hostels of 2 other American programs in Israel, and reunited with several old friends. On top of all this I've been writing papers, taking tests, attending classes, speaking Hebrew (or trying), and getting just enough sleep to soak up all of the amazing experiences which I've been having.

If you have any questions about any of the events which I have briefly mentioned, please send me an e-mail or write a comment on this blog and I will be happy to answer it. 

This weekend I have an orientation for my trip to Eastern Europe, and it actually starts in approximately 45 minutes. I will try my best to keep this updated as time goes on!

Always,

Zach

Experience Overload

I am very sorry that I have not been able to update this over the course of the past week, but life has been such a whirlwind that I have not had the opportunity to sit down and write. I hope this entry doesn't turn out to be too ridiculously long, but I have a lot to say! 

My last entry mentioned that I would be attending a special program in a very religious area of Jerusalem. Right before the holiday of Sukkot, you are required to purchase 4 species of plants to use in ceremony. We were taken to a special market where these plants were sold exclusively. There were dozens of different vendors each alleging that their product was superior. Very religious men walked around with magnifying glasses to examine the plants to make sure that they adequately fulfilled the requirements of the holiday. The scene was loud, and energetic, and I am very glad I had a chance to see it. 

The next morning two friends and I decided it would be a nice idea to spend the holiday on a hike. We took a bus up to the north of Israel and made camp at the Yahudia camp sight. After eating and enjoying the peaceful atmosphere, we went to sleep. In the middle of the night a giant wind/lightning storm swept through the camp sight. Extremely fast winds blew everything everywhere, and the sky lit up with the brilliant glow of lightning. Thankfully it did not rain because we were not fortunate enough to have a tent. The hike the next day was one of the most fun I have ever done featuring waterfalls, great views, and pools of water which you needed to cross (the challenge was trying to keep as much of your stuff dry as possible). 

On Wednesday morning I watched a movie about Sukkot in Hebrew class, and then I was able to take a much needed nap for several hours. That night several friends and I bought tickets to see the Jerusalem Symphony perform. I had realized that they were going to be going on tour in the United States and this would have been our last opportunity to see them, so we went. It was an amazing concert, and made me very much miss playing the cello. 

On Thursday my program took us on a bus early in the morning to the Old City of Jerusalem. It was the day of a very special prayer in which many thousands of people had gathered to participate. Above is a picture of the crazy scene. A group of friends and I were lucky enough to be able to witness the madness from atop the roof of a school. I spent the rest of that day wandering the streets of the Old City and I received a tour about the history of the city and the surrounding areas. 

That night at about 8:00 I got on a bus and headed for the Kineret (Sea of Galilee) for the Breishit (Genesis) Music Festival. The festival had dozens of interesting Israeli musicians, workshops, the beach, a water park, and many friends who I haven't seen for weeks. I camped out, cooked food, and enjoyed all that the program had to offer. The picture above is me with several friends as the sun sets on the Kineret.

Despite the exhaustion induced by the festival, Sunday was full of programming. We woke up early and drove several hours to the coast of the Mediterranean to "dive for techelet". Techelet is a special dye that comes from a snail found in the sea. In the Jewish religion you're supposed to use the dye for certain ritual objects. We snorkeled around and were very successful in finding dozens of these special snails. We then drove to a special park where we saw many different "sukkahs". The Sukkah is hut which Jews stay in for 8 days during the holiday of Sukkot to represent the huts stayed in while wandering in the desert after the exodus from Egypt. We saw many fascinating Sukkot in many shapes and sizes and learned which were acceptable for observing the holiday. Later that day we experienced life as biblical shepherds and we were actually required to herd sheep! It was a long, tiring day, but I will certainly remember it for years to come.

The next morning we boarded a bus headed for Sfat, one of the 4 holiest cities in Israel. In Sfat we were hosted by a program called Ascent who tried to give us all the experiences of a traditional chasidic Simchat Torah. Simchat Torah is the holiday on which we finish the yearly cycle of reading the Torah, and begin again. Considered one of the happiest days of the year, the dancing and celebrating literally did not stop for 30 hours straight. We had some meals at the Ascent building, and some meals we went to the houses of local families. The holiday was very fun, and very memorable. A perfect cap to a phenomenal holiday season. 

Today I woke up at 8:30 for Hebrew class which was relatively uneventful. After class we had a field trip for Zionism. We were required by law to take a bulletproof bus because we would be exploring the area in and around the West Bank and East Jerusalem. We saw the complicated borders, we discussed the potential for peace agreements, and we learned about the defense fence and the trouble it has caused. The situation in Jerusalem is going to be very difficult to resolve during the peace process, and seeing the geography up close put the entire Palestinian-Israeli conflict in a different perspective. 

Right now I have homework, and I'm very behind on sleep. Once again, I'm sorry for the absurdly long entry and I will do what I can to update on a more regular basis so the entries aren't so painful for both of us.

Until next time!

-Zach

Haifantastic

The morning after we broke the fast, I woke up late and hopped on a train with 2 friends to Haifa, a city in the north of Israel. We walked the streets of this beautiful place and saw the amazing Bahai Gardens at night. Later I enjoyed a home-cooked Shabbat dinner with about 15 people who I rarely get to see on Year Course. The next morning we woke up and walked to the beach where we ate lunch and spent some time enjoying the Mediterranean Sea. I was back in Jerusalem with just enough time to pick up the last tickets to Hadah Nachash a very popular Israeli band. The concert was very fun, and a wonderful cap to a perfect weekend. 

Classes today were interesting, and I now have another 2 days off for the holiday of Sukkot. I am not entirely sure of my plans, but I will keep you posted once they are determined. 

Tonight we are going to a very religious area of Jerusalem for a special program. I will let you know how that goes as well.

Chag Sameach!

-Zach

Why call it a fast if it's so slow?

I don't remember the name of the tradition, but my day of atonement essentially began at a chicken slaughter house. The custom involves swinging a chicken around over your head 3 times, and then having it ritually slaughtered (this helps to absolve you of your sins). It's an ancient, outdated, tradition... but it is apparently alive and well on the streets of Jerusalem. The images of chickens being swung through the air and then killed will be forever burned into my mind, and I can safely say that I have no intention of ever taking part in this morbid ceremony again.

Later that evening I was enjoying a normal night on Ben Yehuda street (a popular hang-out for Americans in Jerusalem) when a friend and I randomly decided to go to the Kotel (Western wall). Entirely unbeknown to us, we would become part of an enormous pilgrimage to the Old City of Jerusalem because of a special prayer service. As we climbed the hill to enter into the gates of the Old City we realized that we were among tens of thousands of people who had the same idea as us. The throng of people in front of the wall was unbelievable and to fight our way through took 20 minutes. 

Getting back to the youth hostel at 2:30 am, I tried to watch the Presidential Debate, but my eyes would not stay open. I enjoyed a long sleep, ate lunch, and then hopped on a bus with 6 friends to the Old City (once again). This time, the plan was to stay in a youth hostel outside the Old City and spend Yom Kippur exploring the synagogues in the holiest place on earth. The plan went very smoothly and I had an absolutely wonderful, meaningful, Yom Kippur.

Tomorrow I am taking the train to Haifa (a city up north), where I will be staying until Saturday evening when I will be coming back to Jerusalem for the performance of a very popular Israeli rock band.

It has been a crazy few days, and hopefully it will continue to be crazy!

-Zach

Hostel Environment

Hello!

After the holiday it seemed like a nice idea to spend the weekend in Jerusalem staying at the Judaean Youth Hostel (our primary residence), and prepare for the week to come. The Judaean Youth Hostel or Beit Yehuda is one of the most beautiful buildings I have ever seen. Complete with full-sized pool, workout room, library, classrooms, dining hall, café, computer room, balconies overlooking a beautiful landscape, basketball court, window rooms, and auditorium. It is an amazing place to live and spending the weekend here preparing for midterms and writing papers and such is not such a bad thing.

It is amazing that I'm halfway through the first section. It seems like yesterday that I started year course, and now I'm starting to be concerned that it is almost over (an irrational fear, I know). 

The concert that I mentioned in my last post was an incredible brass and percussion group, and it was very fun to see them. Today I think I am going to a park, and then perhaps to watch the sun set on the Old City of Jerusalem from Mount Scopus. 

Have restful weekend!

-Zach

Shofar So Good

Before I begin I must credit the tacky pun in this blog title to a shirt I once saw.

That being said, I will relay the events of Rosh Hashannah in the best way I can. The night before the holiday my program loaded us onto a bus at 3:00 in the morning to go synagogue hopping around Jerusalem. Hundreds of people gather in Jerusalem weeks before this important time to pray "Slichot" in the very early hours of the morning. It was a very unique (albeit tiring) experience, but I am glad I had an opportunity to see it. 

The next morning I slept until about lunch, when I ate quickly and hopped on a bus for Modi'in, the fastest growing city in Israel. Started in about 1997, Modi'in already boasts about 70,000 residents, and it hopes to eventually be the fourth largest city in Israel. 

I had hospitality of a very lovely family, the food was delicious, the services were nice, and the experience was overall a good one. Last night I came back to Jerusalem, finished up some homework, and went to sleep.

Today I had classes all day. Now seems like as good a time as ever to tell you about my classes. I am taking the History of Zionism which is essentially an in depth look into how the state of Israel was established. We have field trips around all of Israel every Wednesday. I am required to take 90 minutes of Hebrew every day. The class is moving quickly, and I feel myself picking up Hebrew, but I regret that the Spanish which I spent 7 years of my life learning is slowly slipping away from me. I am taking a class called "The Genesis Parables" which looks at the biblical book of Genesis as literature rather than historical fact. I am taking a class which examines Judaism as a faith compared to a culture. Lastly, I take a class which teaches about the Arab-Israeli conflict and the best ways to advocate on Israel's behalf. I am enjoying all of my classes, and all of my teachers.

Tonight I am going to a concert in Jerusalem. I am not sure who the artist is, but I'm sure it will be interesting at least. I also hope to wake up at 4:00 am to watch the vice-presidential debate with a few people. Tomorrow I am going on a hike in the north, which I'm sure will be very fun. That's all for now!

Please let me know if you have any specific questions you would like me to answer.

-Zach

Shana Tova!

I spent this past weekend in a town outside Jerusalem called Efrat. Located in the West Bank, Efrat is riddled with controversy. It is beautiful, and filled with many American immigrants to Israel. The weekend was very relaxing and it was nice to spend time in a part of Israel entirely new to me. 

I will be spending Rosh Hashana in Modi'in, and I will update you on that experience when I have had it!

Shana Tova!

-Zach

Baguettes and Bagels

At first glance it might seem like a strange decision to start off my year in France. How can the Eiffel Tower and the Louvre contribute in any way to my knowledge about or appreciation for the state of Israel? Well, the truth of the matter is that those two particularly touristy sights did very little on that front. France, however, is steeped in history about the Jewish people and Zionism. 

I would learn over the course of my week in France that beneath the majesty of French culture hid an incredible tapestry of Jewish tradition. The Jews of France had prospered and integrated fully into French society, but despite their contributions the horror of anti-Semitism had repeatedly endangered their lives. We explored the Jewish Emancipation, French citizen collaborators to the holocaust, as well as the reality of anti-Semitism in modern France, and the strength of the Jewish community in Paris today. Towards the end of our voyage we learned about the Dreyfus affair and the secular Jewish reporter who would cover the trial and dream the state of Israel, Theodor Herzl. 

Having concluded the trip approximately a month ago, my memory is slightly hazy, but I can remember several highlights. I visited The Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, Mont Sant-Michel, the war-torn beaches of Normandy, a museum on France and the Holocaust, a museum on D-Day, the Pantheon (in which many famous French people are buried), and Napoleon's tomb. We also visited the very small Jewish community of Caen, and we spent Shabbat hosted by a very large Jewish community in Paris. When we went to Omaha cemetery (an American grave sight for those killed at D-Day) we placed stones from Jerusalem on the graves of Jewish soldiers. We visited the beautiful home of an assimilated French Jewish family whose son was killed in action fighting for France in World War I and whose daughter was killed at Auschwitz. We also sang Hatikva, the Israeli national anthem, in front of the hotel where Theodor Herzl staying during the Dreyfus affair and imagined a modern Jewish state. 

I'm certain that there were more experiences that my memory has prevented me from mentioning. Overall the people I met were amazing and I look forward to traveling again with them in 2 months, the staff was phenomenal, the trip was well organized, and it was an incredible way to start off a year in Israel. 

On a more current note, this weekend I am spending shabbat in Efrat, which is a small town outside of Jerusalem. I will let you know how it goes!

-Zach

The Belated Beginning

Those of you who know my mother will find it no surprise that my lack of written communication was quite frustrating for her. Therefore I am starting this blog so that those who are interested (which she claims is quite a few people) can have an easy way to find out about my year in Israel and the rest of the world. I apologize for my 4 week absence of update but I will do what I can to fill in the gaps of the past month over the course of my next several posts. 

Today I visited Atlit at which there was the remnants of a British detention center for Jews who came to British Palestine after the holocaust. We spoke to an American man who went to Israel to help get Jews into Palestine. It was an interesting field trip, and shed light on a difficult time in the history of Israel. 

Tonight I am going out to eat Ethiopian food in Jerusalem with a few friends.

Thanks for reading, I look forward to keeping this updated!

-Zach